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June 20, 2024 – Day 13 – Summer solstice, huge passes, more bears
November 6, 2024 Note: Given the events of yesterday’s election, I feel a higher sense of urgency to tell the story of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, for this is the very spot where President-elect Donald Trump wants to drill… Continue reading
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June 17-19, 2024 – Day 10-12 – Caches, bears and terra incognita
On our way to the cache we had our first bear encounter of the trip. A large, male grizzly was feeding along a small creek bed directly in our path of travel, unaware of our presence. We debated trying to… Continue reading
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June 16, 2024 – Day 9 – Into the Kaleidoscope
Today we left the desert Southwest and entered Iceland. Verdant, wild green kaleidoscope mountains capped with gray tops and snow surround our campsite this evening. Dark rain clouds move up the valley, dousing us briefly, and then disappearing as the… Continue reading
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June 15, 2024 – Day 8 – The Arctic Meets the Desert Southwest
Today we entered the desert-southwest portion of the Brooks Range, with dry canyons, arroyos and the sweetest sage I’ve smelled north of the Wind Rivers. People often compare the Arctic to the desert. Both are dry and give similar sensations… Continue reading
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June 14, 2024 – Day 7 – Caribou, Distant Humans, a Week Down and a Long Way to Go
The good weather continues. We’re still heading up the big river deeper into the mountains, alternating between gravel bar walking and walking above the river bank on the tundra when the brush is too thick. Gravel bar walking is easier… Continue reading
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June 13, 2024 – Day 6 – Inuksuks and Crossing the Big River
There was a big sigh of relief this morning when I woke up and the feet didn’t hurt at all. We had some drier walking yesterday, and we gave each other foot massages last night to loosen up the tendons.… Continue reading
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June 12, 2024 – Day 5 – Into the Mountains
Last night was a rough one. My left foot stung this morning, very reminiscent of the pain I had before I got trench foot on the traverse in 2021. And yet, there is no visible mark of skin damage. It’s… Continue reading
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June 11, 2024 – Day 4 – Frozen Skies, Caribou and the Pleistocene Era
June 11 on the North Slope is not like June 11 in most places. We both woke up around 3 am cold in our sleeping bags. They are rated to 20° and we were bundled up in wool from head-to-toe,… Continue reading
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June 10, 2024 – Day 3 – Polar Bear Habitat, Bowhead Whales and Varied Walking
Good news, my sore throat was gone this morning. Glad to have dodged that bullet. Our walk from the Beaufort Sea to the Brooks Range continues, and today, surprise, the sun came out for a brief spell and the cold… Continue reading
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June 9, 2024 – Day 2 – Sore Throat, Fog and Birds Galore
While day one was a true thriller, day two was pleasantly benign. Good. Thrillers make stories and we’re bound to have a few of those, but it’s no way to sustain a long expedition. Speaking of expeditions, Elaine shared a… Continue reading
Alta Backcountry: Living and Exporing in Wild Places
Alta Backcountry 