adventure
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Greenland Crossing Day 3 – The First Crevasse Day
August 17. Rain had fallen during the night, and by morning the glacier was glazed in a thin, brittle shine that made every step feel tentative. We were moving across a surface of ripples and hollows, a landscape that looked… Continue reading
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Greenland Crossing Day 2 – Learning the Sled
August 16. The day began on hard, bare ice. We were still far below the snowline, so the skis stayed strapped to sleds and everyone walked. The surface was a mix of frozen dimples and sun-hardened ripples that made travel… Continue reading
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Greenland Crossing Day 1 – Onto the Ice
August 15. We left the Red House at 9 a.m. under clear skies and a light that felt almost too warm for East Greenland. The harbor was quiet except for the clatter of bags being handed from dock to boat.… Continue reading
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Greenland Crossing Preparation – Before the Ice Comes the Hostel
August 14, 2022 — Tasillaq, East Greenland We came back to Greenland to try again. The first time, in 2018, the ice pushed us back with storms strong enough to tear a tent built for Antarctica. We were evacuated by… Continue reading
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Endless Summer on Skis
This year has been a little bit of a wash in terms of outdoor adventures. In March my wife tore her knee, and the ensuing instability, surgery (which made it stable again) and rehab made a planned multi-month trip in… Continue reading
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June 20, 2024 – Day 13 – Summer solstice, huge passes, more bears
November 6, 2024 Note: Given the events of yesterday’s election, I feel a higher sense of urgency to tell the story of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, for this is the very spot where President-elect Donald Trump wants to drill… Continue reading
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June 17-19, 2024 – Day 10-12 – Caches, bears and terra incognita
On our way to the cache we had our first bear encounter of the trip. A large, male grizzly was feeding along a small creek bed directly in our path of travel, unaware of our presence. We debated trying to… Continue reading
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June 16, 2024 – Day 9 – Into the Kaleidoscope
Today we left the desert Southwest and entered Iceland. Verdant, wild green kaleidoscope mountains capped with gray tops and snow surround our campsite this evening. Dark rain clouds move up the valley, dousing us briefly, and then disappearing as the… Continue reading
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Brooks Range Traverse Gear List
This is a list of the gear we used on our hike/paddle across the Brooks Range. This was roughly 600 miles of hiking and 400 miles of paddling. Gear is super personal; what works for some people doesn’t for others… Continue reading
Alta Backcountry 