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Greenland Crossing Day 4 – Finding Snow
August 18. The night was windy and restless, and by morning the ice felt unsettled. Not dangerous exactly, just busy. Crevasses right out of camp forced immediate decisions, and the surface was carved into shallow runnels that didn’t really go… Continue reading
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Greenland Crossing Day 3 – The First Crevasse Day
August 17. Rain had fallen during the night, and by morning the glacier was glazed in a thin, brittle shine that made every step feel tentative. We were moving across a surface of ripples and hollows, a landscape that looked… Continue reading
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June 20, 2024 – Day 13 – Summer solstice, huge passes, more bears
November 6, 2024 Note: Given the events of yesterday’s election, I feel a higher sense of urgency to tell the story of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, for this is the very spot where President-elect Donald Trump wants to drill… Continue reading
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June 15, 2024 – Day 8 – The Arctic Meets the Desert Southwest
Today we entered the desert-southwest portion of the Brooks Range, with dry canyons, arroyos and the sweetest sage I’ve smelled north of the Wind Rivers. People often compare the Arctic to the desert. Both are dry and give similar sensations… Continue reading



